Jordan

Jordan is a compact country with some of the most striking sights in the Middle East. The rose-red city of Petra, the moonlike desert of Wadi Rum, the salty buoyancy of the Dead Sea, the Roman ruins of Jerash, and the reefs of Aqaba are all within a few hours of each other. It is also known for its hospitality, with Bedouin tea offered freely, and for being one of the more stable and welcoming countries in the region.

This guide covers the best seasons, how to get around, the main sights, and practical advice for a trip.

Quick Facts

• Capital: Amman
• Language: Arabic; English is widely spoken in tourist areas
• Currency: Jordanian dinar (JOD)
• Best seasons: March to May and September to November
• Getting around: Rental cars, private drivers, and buses

The Best Time To Visit

Spring and autumn are the best seasons, with warm days and cool evenings, ideal for hiking Petra and camping in Wadi Rum. Summer, from June to August, is very hot, particularly in the desert and at the Dead Sea and Aqaba, so plan outdoor sightseeing for early morning. Winter is cool, and Petra and Amman can be cold and occasionally rainy or even snowy, but crowds are small and prices are low. Ramadan changes opening hours, and daytime dining may be limited outside tourist areas.

Getting There And Getting Around

Queen Alia International Airport (AMM) near Amman is the main gateway, with Aqaba also receiving some flights. Distances are short, and the best way to see the country is by rental car or with a private driver, with the Desert Highway and the scenic King's Highway as the main routes. Public buses connect the main cities but are limited. Ride-hailing apps work well in Amman.

Amman And Jerash

Amman is a hilly capital with a Roman amphitheatre, the Citadel, and a lively downtown with food stalls and coffee houses. Try breakfast of hummus and falafel in the old centre. Just north, Jerash is one of the best-preserved Roman provincial cities in the world, with colonnaded streets, temples, and theatres.

Petra

Petra, the Nabataean capital carved into rose-coloured cliffs, is the country's greatest sight. Enter through the Siq, a narrow canyon that opens to the Treasury, and continue to the Monastery, which involves climbing around 800 steps. Allow a full day, or two for hiking to viewpoints. Go early in the morning to avoid crowds and heat, wear sturdy shoes, and consider Petra by Night, a candlelit evening walk held on selected evenings. Stay in nearby Wadi Musa.

Wadi Rum

Wadi Rum is a vast desert of red sand and sandstone mountains, made famous by Lawrence of Arabia. Explore in a 4x4 with a Bedouin guide, climb dunes at sunset, and sleep in a desert camp under a sky full of stars. Many camps range from basic tents to luxury domes. Allow at least one night.

The Dead Sea And Aqaba

The Dead Sea is the lowest point on land, and its extremely salty water lets you float effortlessly. Avoid getting water in your eyes, and do not shave beforehand. Mud treatments are popular. Aqaba on the Red Sea offers excellent snorkelling and diving, with coral reefs and wrecks close to shore, and is a relaxing end to a trip.

Beyond The Classic Route

Madaba is known for its Byzantine mosaic map, and nearby Mount Nebo has views over the Holy Land. The Dana Biosphere Reserve and the Wadi Mujib canyon offer hiking and canyoning in the mountains, and the Jordan Trail runs the length of the country for long-distance walkers.

What To Eat

Jordanian food is built on shared plates. Mansaf, lamb cooked in fermented yoghurt and served on rice, is the national dish. Try hummus, falafel, mutabbal, and fresh flatbread, maqluba (an upside-down rice dish), and zarb, meat and vegetables cooked underground by Bedouin. Finish with kunafa, a sweet cheese pastry, and sweet mint tea or cardamom coffee.

Culture And Etiquette

Jordan is a conservative, mostly Muslim country, so dress modestly outside beach resorts, with shoulders and knees covered. Use your right hand for eating and greeting, and accept offers of tea. Ask before photographing people. Public displays of affection are best avoided. Tipping of about 10 percent is common.

Practical Tips

• Check visa requirements, and consider the Jordan Pass, which bundles visa fee and site entries for many visitors
• Check current travel advice for your country before you go
• Visit Petra at opening time and bring water, a hat, and sunscreen
• Agree on prices in advance for camel rides, guides, and desert tours
• Carry cash for small purchases and tips
• Allow seven to ten days to cover Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum, and the Dead Sea

Jordan is small, but it leaves a big impression. Take your time in Petra, spend a night in the desert, and say yes to the tea.

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